Anti-ageing skincare — what the evidence supports and what it does not.

Most people come to anti-ageing skincare too late, with too many products, and too little patience. The category is the most marketed and most inflated segment of the industry. Claims range from credible to implausible — and they frequently appear in the same product description.

What the evidence actually supports is considerably simpler than the marketing suggests. And the most effective interventions are often not found in the products positioned as "anti-ageing."

What skin ageing is

Visible skin ageing has two distinct causes that are important to distinguish.

Intrinsic ageing is chronological — the changes that occur in the skin regardless of sun exposure or environment. After the mid-twenties, collagen synthesis decreases at roughly 1% per year. Skin becomes thinner, less elastic, and slower to repair itself. Subcutaneous fat redistributes gradually, changing how the skin sits on the face. These changes are biological and cannot be stopped, though some can be slowed.

Extrinsic ageing is driven by external factors — primarily UV radiation. UV exposure causes oxidative damage to collagen and elastin fibres, stimulates enzymes that break down existing collagen, and disrupts the regular structure of the skin's matrix. This type of ageing — photoageing — is responsible for the majority of visible signs typically attributed to growing older: fine lines, uneven pigmentation, loss of firmness, rough texture. It is largely preventable.

The most effective intervention

Sunscreen is the single most evidence-backed anti-ageing product available.

The dermatological literature is unambiguous: daily broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher prevents more cumulative visible skin damage than any active ingredient, treatment, or serum. A randomised controlled trial published in the Annals of Internal Medicine demonstrated that adults who wore sunscreen daily showed no detectable increase in skin ageing over four and a half years, while those who wore it as-needed showed measurable progression.

This finding is underemphasised in marketing because sunscreen is inexpensive and non-proprietary. It is the most important thing a person can do for the long-term appearance of their skin.

Ingredients with genuine evidence

Retinoids. Tretinoin (prescription retinoic acid) is the most studied anti-ageing topical ingredient. Decades of randomised controlled trials demonstrate measurable reduction in fine lines, improvement in texture and elasticity, and visible reduction in pigmentation — through accelerated cell turnover and direct stimulation of collagen synthesis by dermal fibroblasts. Consumer retinol requires conversion to retinoic acid in the skin, making it less potent but still effective at concentrations of 0.1–1% with consistent use. The timescale is months, not weeks.

Niacinamide. At 4–5%, niacinamide increases ceramide synthesis, reduces transepidermal water loss, and strengthens barrier function. It also inhibits melanin transfer — reducing the appearance of age spots and uneven tone — and has demonstrated modest effects on fine lines in long-term studies. It is among the most broadly tolerated actives for mature or sensitive skin.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid). The skin's most studied topical antioxidant. Applied in the morning, it neutralises free radicals generated by UV and pollution, and stimulates collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts. At 10–20% in a stabilised, low-pH formulation, the evidence for gradual improvement in fine lines and pigmentation is solid.

Signal peptides. Some peptides — particularly palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 — have credible evidence for stimulating collagen synthesis at sufficient concentrations. The category is substantially overpromised in marketing; the evidence is selective. Well-formulated, evidence-backed peptide serums are a reasonable addition to a stable routine for those focused on firmness.

What does not have strong evidence

Eye creams. The periorbital skin is thinner and more delicate, but most dedicated eye creams are moisturisers in smaller packaging at considerably higher cost. The same well-formulated moisturiser applied gently achieves the same effect.

Oral collagen supplements. Evidence for ingested collagen peptides producing measurable changes in skin appearance is still preliminary and inconsistent. The skin's collagen is produced by dermal fibroblasts, not transported from the gut.

"Firming" serums without retinoids or peptides. Products claiming firming without a mechanism-backed ingredient are almost exclusively relying on temporary film-forming agents that create a tightening sensation without structural change.

The routine that works

A practical anti-ageing routine built on the evidence:

Morning: Gentle cleanse → niacinamide serum → moisturiser → broad-spectrum SPF 30+. Vitamin C can be added after cleansing and before moisturiser for additional antioxidant protection.

Evening: Gentle cleanse → retinoid (introduced slowly, starting once per week and building to nightly over several months) → moisturiser. On non-retinoid nights, niacinamide functions well as the treatment step.

Consistency over time matters more than any single product choice. The visible effects of retinoids and vitamin C accumulate over months of daily use.

The Lux & Glo approach

The three-step ritual — oil cleanser, niacinamide serum, barrier-supporting moisturiser — builds the baseline that makes any anti-ageing active effective. A compromised barrier reduces the penetration of treatment ingredients. Insufficient ceramides leave the skin reactive to ingredients that would otherwise work.

The ritual is the foundation. Retinoids and vitamin C are additions on top of it — not replacements for it.

The most common reason anti-ageing products underperform is not that they are ineffective. It is that the barrier they are applied to is not in a condition to support them. Start with the baseline. Add targeted actives once the skin is stable. Expect months, not weeks.