Centella asiatica in skincare — what the evidence shows for wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and barrier repair.

Centella asiatica — a small herb native to subtropical and tropical regions of Asia — has been used in traditional medicine for wound healing and skin repair for centuries. Its application to cosmetic skincare follows a different trajectory from most botanical ingredients: there is a meaningful body of peer-reviewed research, including controlled trials, supporting specific mechanisms and clinical outcomes. This distinguishes it from the majority of plant extracts that appear in skincare on the basis of tradition or marketing rather than evidence.

The most common names on ingredient labels are centella asiatica extract, CICA extract (an informal abbreviation used particularly in Korean skincare), or the individual active compounds: madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid.

Active compounds and mechanisms

The clinically relevant activity of centella asiatica derives from a group of pentacyclic triterpenoids — complex ring-structured molecules — collectively called centelloids. The principal ones are asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid.

Madecassoside and asiaticoside are the glycoside forms — they are water-soluble and penetrate the skin readily. Once absorbed, enzymatic activity converts them to their aglycone forms (madecassic acid and asiatic acid), which are the pharmacologically active molecules. This conversion step is one reason why different centella preparations may vary in activity depending on what form the actives are in and how bioavailable they are.

Collagen synthesis. Multiple in vitro and in vivo studies show that asiatic acid and asiaticoside stimulate collagen I and III synthesis in fibroblasts, both by upregulating collagen gene expression and by supporting the TGF-β signalling pathway that drives wound-healing responses. The collagen-stimulating effect is among the better-documented activities of centelloids.

Anti-inflammatory activity. Madecassoside inhibits multiple pro-inflammatory pathways. In research models, it suppresses NF-κB signalling — a central mediator of skin inflammation — and reduces the production of inflammatory cytokines including interleukins and TNF-α. This mechanistic grounding helps explain observed clinical benefits in eczema, dermatitis, and post-procedure recovery.

Barrier repair. Centelloids appear to support the synthesis of structural skin barrier components, including ceramides and proteins of the cornified envelope. Studies on atopic dermatitis show improvements in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) — a standard measure of barrier integrity — with consistent topical application.

Antioxidant activity. Centella asiatica extract demonstrates free radical scavenging activity in cell culture models, though this is a less clinically differentiated property compared to its wound-healing and anti-inflammatory effects.

Clinical evidence

The clinical literature is more robust for centella than for most botanical skincare ingredients. Controlled trials support its use in:

Wound healing and scar management. Studies on burns, surgical scisions, and post-procedure skin consistently show accelerated healing and reduced scar formation with centella-based preparations compared to vehicle control. A 2013 Cochrane review on topical preparations for hypertrophic scars found centella asiatica preparations among the better-evidenced interventions in an otherwise limited field.

Atopic dermatitis and eczema. Randomised controlled trials in atopic dermatitis patients using centella-containing creams show significant reductions in TEWL, itch severity, and inflammatory markers versus control. The anti-inflammatory and barrier-repair mechanisms both appear to contribute.

Photoaged and mature skin. Studies on facial formulations in older subjects show improvements in skin firmness and elasticity measurements after 12 weeks of consistent use, consistent with the collagen-stimulating activity observed in laboratory models.

The evidence is not uniformly strong — many studies use small sample sizes or have methodological limitations — but the convergence of mechanistic research and clinical results in multiple indications gives centella asiatica more credibility than the majority of botanical ingredients.

How to use it

Centella asiatica works well at almost every point in a routine, depending on the formulation:

Sensitive, reactive, or rosacea-prone skin: centella products are among the most broadly tolerated active ingredients. The anti-inflammatory activity is particularly relevant for reducing baseline redness and sensitivity.

Post-treatment recovery: after chemical exfoliation, retinol introduction, or clinical procedures (peels, laser), centella-containing products support healing and reduce irritation. This is where the wound-healing evidence translates most directly.

Barrier rebuilding. For skin with a compromised barrier — over-exfoliation, persistent dryness, reactivity — centella products provide both barrier-repair support and anti-inflammatory activity without adding further stress.

Routine placement: apply after watery steps (essence, hydrating toner) and before heavier moisturisers. Many centella products are lightweight enough to apply under moisturiser; some are formulated as the final skin-facing step before SPF.

There are no significant contraindications for most people. Those with known allergies to the Apiaceae family — the plant family that includes carrots, celery, and coriander — have a slightly elevated risk of cross-reactivity, though reported cases are uncommon.

The Lux & Glo position

Centella asiatica has earned its prominence in modern skincare through evidence, not trend. For skin that prioritises calm, barrier integrity, and long-term structural health over aggressive treatment, centella-containing products occupy a genuinely useful position.

The ingredients that tend to do the most visible work — AHAs, retinoids, vitamin C — often create the temporary stress that centella addresses. Used alongside them, centella supports the recovery that makes consistent active use possible. It is the material that tends the skin, not just treats it.