Face oils in skincare — what they do and when they belong in a routine.

Face oils are widely positioned as a treatment for dry skin — an intensive product for people who need extra moisture. This framing misrepresents what they actually do. Understanding the function of face oils makes them more useful, and more broadly applicable, than the typical positioning suggests.

What face oils are — and what they are not

A face oil is not a moisturiser. A moisturiser addresses skin hydration through a combination of humectants (which draw water in) and occlusives (which seal it in). Most moisturisers also contain water as the primary ingredient, allowing them to deliver hydrating agents directly to the skin.

A face oil contains no water. It works primarily as an occlusive and an emollient — sealing the skin surface to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and smoothing the texture of the skin by filling the spaces between surface cells. Some oils also contain fatty acids and lipids that are directly integrated into the skin barrier.

Applying a face oil does not add moisture to the skin. It seals in the moisture and actives already there.

How oils interact with the skin barrier

The stratum corneum — the outermost layer of the skin — is held together by a lipid matrix composed primarily of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. This matrix maintains barrier integrity and keeps water inside the skin.

Certain plant oils closely mimic components of this lipid matrix. Squalane, derived from olives or sugarcane, is nearly identical in structure to the squalene naturally produced by sebaceous glands. Jojoba oil, technically a liquid wax, closely resembles the composition of human sebum. These oils integrate into the surface of the skin rather than sitting on top of it, which is why they absorb quickly and do not feel heavy under normal conditions.

Other oils — like rosehip and marula — are richer in linoleic and oleic acids, fatty acids the body uses in barrier repair and that are often depleted in dry, compromised, or acne-prone skin.

Face oils and oily skin

The assumption that face oils worsen oily or acne-prone skin has been largely displaced by the evidence. Comedogenic potential varies significantly by oil — breakouts from face oils are almost always attributable to a specific high-comedogenic ingredient, not oil as a category.

Oils with a low comedogenic rating — squalane, rosehip, hemp seed — are tolerated by most oily and acne-prone skin types. There is also evidence that oily skin is often deficient in linoleic acid, and that regular application of linoleic-rich oils can help regulate sebum composition over time rather than exacerbating congestion.

The key variable is oil selection and formulation, not oil as a category.

How to use face oils

Face oils are applied as the last step of a routine — after serums and moisturisers. Oil applied before a water-based product creates a barrier that prevents the subsequent product from absorbing. Applied last, it seals everything underneath and slows TEWL through the night or day.

In the morning, two to three drops are typically sufficient before sunscreen. In the evening, a slightly more generous application provides the occlusive layer for overnight barrier repair.

Oils are most effective applied over a moisturiser while the skin is still slightly damp — the oil has something to seal in. On completely dry skin, the occlusive effect remains but the hydration outcome is lower.

The Lux & Glo position

The cleansing oil in the L&G ritual uses the oil-cleansing method — applying an oil-based cleanser to dry skin, emulsifying with water, and rinsing to remove oxidised sebum, sunscreen, and environmental debris without stripping the barrier. This is a distinct use of oil from the occlusive application described above.

Squalane is also present in the hyaluronic moisturiser as the occlusive component — sealing the humectant layer after glycerin and hyaluronic acid have drawn water in. The moisturiser is designed as a complete step: humectants draw in, emollients smooth, squalane seals.

Whether a separate face oil is needed after the moisturiser depends on the skin's barrier needs. Those with a very compromised or dry barrier may benefit from an additional occlusive layer in the evening. Those with balanced or oily skin typically will not — the squalane in the moisturiser is sufficient.